2.06.2010

The Spraydown...

I enjoy making lists, whether they be of my favorite climbs, to-do climbs, or do-not-repeat climbs. Somewhere in the process of listing the 10 best 5.10 routes in the Cascades, I started compiling a list of my own personal "bests". And for whatever reason, the following routes or days stand out as milestones in my time as a climber. Of course none of these routes were done alone, which makes them more team accomplishments than anything else.

Climber on Uptown Toodeloo (.12-) with Cynical Pinnacle at left - photo by Garrett Grove


Linkups / Speedy Ascents:
  • 5 Spires in 15 hours: The Foil, The Sabre, The Petit Gripon, Sharkstooth, and Zowie ~22 guidebook pitches, 10 miles, and 5 summits in Rocky Mountain National Park
  • Eldo Tour (24 pitches, mostly 5.10 and 5.11): Le Toit, Rosy Crucifixion, The Naked Edge, The Doub-Griffith, Vertigo, and Yellow Spur, Car to car in under 8 hours. All free, except Vertigo, which I lead at the end of the day and did not onsight.
  •  The Naked Edge (all 5 pitches, plus the 5.8 cave pitch were belayed) car-to-car in 73 minutes
  • The Scenic Cruise (14 pitches 5.10+, second time on route) 4hours55 minutes
  • 3 Chief Day - Angel's Crest, High Plains Drifter, Ultimate Everything, and Squamish Buttress. Nearly 50 guidebook pitches in 14 hours. Squamish, B.C.
Long Free Traditional Routes:
  • Astro Dog - Black Canyon's South Rim - V 5.11+ Onsight
  • Levitation 29 - Red Rock Canyon - IV 5.11c (soft in both respects) - Onsight
  • Jupiter II - Red Rock Canyon III 5.11+ - Redpoint
Alpine Routes
'The Cleaner' - Grove Photo

Trad Pitches
  • Bone Crusher - Table Mountain, Colorado 5.12b/c Redpoint
  • The Cleaner - Indian Creek 5.12- Onsight
  • Fingers in a Light Socket - Indian Creek 5.11+ Onsight
  • Uptown Toodeloo - South Platte, Colorado 5.12- Onsight
  • Japanese Gardens - Index, Washington 5.11+ Redpoint
  • The Spoils - Boulder Canyon, Colorado 5.12b Redpoint
Sport Pitches
  • Slammer - Clear Creek, Colorado 5.12b Onsight
  • Sucking My Will to Live - Clear Creek, Colorado 5.12+ Redpoint
  • Freeform - Shelf Road, Colorado 5.12a Onsight
  •  Ten Digit Dialing - Clear Creek, Colorado 5.12c Redpoint
  •  Pearl Jam - Tonsai, Thailand 5.12b Onsight

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