Climbs



 The South Platte, with Cynical Pinnacle at left (Colorado) - photo by Garrett Grove



Alpine First Ascents
  • Eye of the Tiger - Supercave Wall, North Cascades - 5.12c 1,000'
  • The Canadian Club - Stiletto Peak, Waddington Range BC - ED1 5.11-
  • The West Face of Mt. Bute - Coast Range, Western Canada - FFA ED1 5.12a 2,000'
  • Gorillas in the Mist - Mt. Stuart, Cascades- TD+ 5.11- 
  • Las Vent'úras - Aguja Guillaumet West Face, Argentine Patagonia - TD 5.11 A0 
  • A Fine Piece / Cerro Pollone Massif Traverse, Chilean Patagonia - ED1 5.11+ FFA and first traverse of all summits
  • The Iron Curtain - Mendenhall Towers, Alaska - TD+ 5.12-  
  • Megalodon Ridge - Mt. Goode, Cascades - TD 5.10  
  • Flight of the Kiwi - Chiefshead Peak, Colorado Rockies - TD 5.10+ 
  • Cosas Patagonicas - Aguja Mermoz, Argentine Patagonia - ED1 5.11+ FFA
  • The Heretic - The Deacon Peak - British Columbia - TD 5.11 
  • Last Rights - Cathedral Peak - North Cascades - TD 5.11d
  • Resignation Arete - Mendenhall Towers, Alaska - TD+ 5.11+
  • Herrington/Hirst - Castle Peak, North Cascades - TD+ 5.10d 1,400'
  • Mt. Endeavour SE Ridge - BC Coast Range - TD+ WI3 5.7, 4,000'
  • The Tempest - Colchuck Balanced Rock - Cascades - IV 5.10 A2
  • Fire on the Mountain - Sloan Peak - Cascades - IV 5.10+ 


Linkups / Speedy Free Ascents:
  • Red Rock, Nevada - The Three Classics: Cloud Tower (to the top) 5.12- A0 10pitches, Rainbow Wall 5.12b 12 pitches, Levitation 29 5.11c 9 pitches - No falls car-to-car in 16hrs
  • Cascade Range - Stuart Range Quadruple: The West Face of Colchuck Balanced Rock, Acid Baby on Aasgard Sentinel, Solid Gold on Prusik Peak, and Hyperspace on Snow Creek Wall, via the Enchantments Wilderness loop (~20 miles) - a no-falls day in 21 hours. 
  • Cascade Range - Stuart Range Triple 5.12 day - Let it Burn on Colchuck Balanced Rock, Dragons of Eden on Dragontail Peak, and Der Sportsman on Prusik Peak - No Falls - 23:40 car-to-car. 
  • Castle Valley Desert - 5 Spires in 12 hours: Castleton Tower - North Face, Rectory - Fine Jade, The Priest - Honeymoon Chimney, Sister Superior - Jah Man, The Convent - Value of Audacity. All routes climbed free in a day.
  • Rocky Mountains - RMNP Tour - Long's peak: Crack of Delight>Pervertical Sanctuary>Forrest Finish to Spearhead Peak: The Barb to Chiefshead Peak: Flight of the Kiwi to Mt. Alice: East Face Central Ramp. 23:45 car-to-car.
Long Free Traditional Climbs:
  • Liberty Crack - Liberty Bell - North Cascades - 1,200' 5.13b - 1st free ascent w/gear placed on lead
  • Thin Red Line - Liberty Bell - North Cascades - 1,200' 5.12c - Flash - 4th Ascent - 9:00 Car-to-Car
  • Astroman - Yosemite National Park - 1,000' 5.11c Onsight - lead all pitches
  • Moonlight Buttress - Zion National Park - 1,000' 5.12+
  • Velvet Tongue - Black Velvet Canyon, Nevada - 1000' 5.12d
  • Astro Dog - Black Canyon's South Rim - V 5.11+ Onsight 
  • Texas Hold 'em to Lone Star - Black Velvet Wall 21-pitch 5.11c linkup - Onsight 13:45 Car-to-Car
  • Accendo Lunae - Colchuck Balanced Rock - 1000' 5.12-  (2nd ascent, & FA of 2-pitch variation)

Traditional Pitches
  • City Park - Index, WA - Redpoint placing all protection on lead
  • Narrow Arrow Overhang - Index, WA 5.13a - Redpoint
  • T.P.M.V. 5.13- Index, Wa - Redpoint
  • Beethoven's Fifth - Bell Buttress, Colorado 5.12d (5.11R) - Redpoint
  • Fall Line - Trout Creek, OR 5.13- First Ascent (Redpoint)
  • Aerie Interlude - Trout Creek, OR 5.12+ FA/FFA (Redpoint)

  • Sport Pitches
  • The Full Amandla - Index, Washington 5.13d Redpoint
  • Conde Dracula - Jaen Spain, Washington 5.13b Flash
  • Super Cantina Marina - Chulilla, Spain 5.13b Onsight
  • El Remanso de Las Mulas - Chulilla, Spain 5.13a Flash
  • Las Clochas de Targa - Chulilla, Spain 5.13c Redpoint
  • Pupply Chow - New River Gorge West Virginia 5.12c Onsight
  • Gracias Fina - Rodellar 5.13b Redpoint
  • Coliseum - Rodellar 5.13b 2nd Go
  • Los Veteranos - Chulilla, Spain 5.13b Redpoint
  • Agente Naranja - Chulilla, Spain 5.13b Redpoint
  • La Quebranta - Chulilla, Spain 5.13b Redpoint
  • El Bufa - Chulilla, Spain 5.13b Redpoint
  • Altos, Guapos, y Fuertes - Chulilla, Spain 5.13b Redpoint


  • Ice Climbs
  • Polar Circus - Icefields Parkway, Mt. Cirrus, Canadian Rockies 2,300' WI5
  • Goat's Beard - North Cascades, WA 1,200' WI5+ (3rd ascent)
  • Drury Falls - Tumwater Canyon, WA 1,000' WI4
  • The Sorcerer - Ghost Valley, Alberta 800' WI5