7.27.2010

New Route in Rocky




Checking in from the North Pacific Seaplane base of Tattoga Lake, British Columbia, I have to post a cool video my friend Graham Zimmerman crafted about our new route, established last week, on the Northwest Face of Chiefshead Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park. This wall is notorious for tough routefinding and long runouts. We were happy to do the line ground-up, onsight, and without the need for bolts. I've found that not owning a drill or knowing how to use one has significantly reduced the time spent bolting on new routes.  There's potential for a couple excellent variations, so check out Graham's video and get on it!






We didn't summit the peak (a huge ledge runs above the continuously steep face, and all routes end along this ledge) but if there hadn't been an ongoing thunder and lightning storm, it would have been nice to scramble up to the top out. Perhaps a good reason to go back...





Here's the evidence of Graham's technological prowess, and now I'm off to pack my bags for the float plane! (One to throw out the window onto a glacier, and one to hike in on the aproach. )














Nuts and Bolts:

2x 8.1mm 60m half ropes
2x cams to #3, 1x #4
1x set wires
1x ice tool w/hammer for pounding pins
3x pins and one beak - tried to use beak, didn't work
One 30L pack for the follower
Got wet and cold and Electrical storm atop the face on the first time, bailed from there, returned with Joe Sambataro one week later, did the right-side variation, and more pitches to the summit.
No need for ice tools or crampons

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