Trout Creek

Central Oregon's Trout Creek may soon be temporarily closed due to raptor nesting, so when I saw a forecast calling for sun and 40 degree highs last weekend, I headed down. I was joined by my lovely wife Allison on our three-day sports extravaganza.  On Friday we skied a tour of Skyline Ridge and Nason Creek, on Saturday we clipped bolts at Smith Rock State Park, and on Sunday we jammed and stemmed amazing splitters.

We had planned on two days at Trout Creek, but dense fog on Saturday convinced us to head onward 25 miles to Smith Rock State Park. But would it be sunny there? I used 1800 - BING - 411 to get connected to the Terrebone, OR Thriftway, where one of the store's checkers quizzically answered my meteorological inquiries and we were off.

Here's Allion on Zebra Zion. Despite this pitch of crack climbing, everything else we did was bolted. However, we had only brought down 2 quickdraws on the trip. (Trout Creek = Splitters with fixed anchors). After seeing us make a few "trad draws" via a set of wires and carabiners raided from cams, as well as utilizing my webbing belt/chalkbag as a runner, a local took pity on us and loaned us draws for the day. Thanks!









The sunset at Smith Rock was beautiful, with the Crooked River and Asterisk Pass framing and reflecting the glow.

The sun is only on the wall at Trout Creek these days from noon to 4:30, but we still managed to climb 6 routes up there.

Local guru and guidebook author Jeff Wenger and partner for the day

TRing in the direct sun doesn't provide many photo opportunities, but here is Allison working her way up 'The Ruiner'.  We also climbed U2, Monster, Mr. squiggles, JR Token, and something else.

Jeff and the crag dogs

I think Trout Creek is the most convenient trad climbing anywhere.  You don't need much gear, the routes are laughably close together, all pitches end in fixed lower-off carabiners, the locals are friendly, and the views are amazing. I'm definitely excited to keep ticking off more and more routes on every visit.

Free Trout Creek Guidebook