I was easily able to entice former Washingtonian Chris Weidner into joining me, and we began with a chimney just left of The Warrior.
|P1 was wide climbing, and just mossy enough to make me feel at home.|
Roughly 1000' of great 5.9 crack climbing lead us to the final anchor on The Warrior, and the easy romp to summit #1.
A belayed downclimb and one rappel landed us in the windy col.
|Downclimbing to the col|
The route on Wilson was only 3 belayed pitches, but the middle one had long and varied crack climbing that is THE BEST crack pitch I've climbed in Red Rock.
This route (we named it the Cactus Connection) would be an easy way to finish after any route up Cactus Flower Tower. There are certainly other obvious new routes available there too.
Here are a few photos of the new routes.
Chris Weidner posted info here:
It amazes me that one can still walk up to a feature easily visible from the highway in one of the nation's busiest climbing spots, and establish two new routes ground-up, onsight, and boltless in a day.
We found a very casual descent from Mt. Wilson into Oak Creek, past Solar Slab, and out to our car.
- Walk straight away from the Hwy for ~25 mins, staying on the ridge crest
- Soon after the ground changes from red sandstone to grey limestone, hang a hard right down toward Oak Creek.
- As long as you are descending a drainage near the limestone/sandstone interface (err skier's left) you'll be easily able to walk back to the car using just a single 40' rappel from a fixed rope roughly halfway down the wash. Everything else is mellow walking.