10.07.2014

Summer Cascades Roundup and Topos


I devoted most of my climbing energy and time this summer to the Cascades, and was fortunate to get to do many routes which I had overlooked for years, primarily around Washington Pass and Mt. Stuart. In writing, photographing, and making topos of these routes, I ended up with several passable-quality topos for routes which had no published topos, or only very basic ones. I also had a great week-long trip to Idaho to climb in the Sawtooth Range, ticking some classics on the Elephant's Perch.

In addition to including some topos below, I've  had fun remembering the alpine rock routes I did this summer - I definitely managed to cram lots of climbing in!


  • Solid Gold - Prusik Peak (via skis after climbing Triple Couloirs)
  • The Scoop - CBR (in running shoes, without a harness - long story)
  • West Face NEWS and SW Rib SEWS - Via skis with 8th grade Stehekin buddy
  • Boving-Pollock - SEWS (with my wife)
  • Independence Route - Liberty Bell (2/3 of the line with Sol Wertkin, then the whole thing with Madaleine Sorkin)
  • Thin Red Line - Liberty Bell (with Madaleine Sorkin)
  • Liberty and Injustice for All - Liberty Bell (neither Jens nor I sent this new classic, on a cold and drippy fall attempt)
  • Freedom or Death - Liberty Bell (redpointed the route and rapped the whole E. face)
  • Barber Pole - Liberty Bell (stashing mission with Madaleine)
  • Lexington E Face - (with photographer and friends in a party ascent)
  • Supercave Wall - Ellen Pea (with Colin Moorhead)
  • Supercave Wall - "Cracks to the future"/L&H Route - (FFA of the 5.12 pitch I had cleaned in '13)
  • Supercave Wall - The Tiger (FA of new route, with Colin Moorhead)
  • Supercave Wall - The Eye of the Tiger (FFA of the harder direct variation)
  • Springbok Arete - Les Cornes w/direct start (first time finally getting up something in SW BC alpine)
  • The Scoop - Colchuck Balanced Rock (climbed with Forest and another team for photos)
  • Let it Burn - CBR (lead entire route in 3:45 as part of linkup)
  • Dragons of Eden - Dragontail (followed Jens during linkup - lead most of this the week prior - did not onsite it)
  • Der Sportsman - Prusik (climbed it 2 times in late July)
  • Boving-Christensen - Dragontail (not as scared as reported to be - see topo)
  • Fine Line - Elephant Perch (awesome. Hot!)
  • Astro-Elephant to Sunrise Book - Elephant Perch (the 5.9 is .10c, the .12- also about .10c)
  • Boomer's Story - Elephant Perch (1 hang following the 5.13- second pitch)
And I didn't make it to: Slesse, Girth Pillar, Liberty Crack, Big Kangaroo, West Stuart Wall, Colchuck Peak, The Tempest, the complete L&H route, Vanishing Point, Tooth&Claw, N. Face of SEWS, Mojo Rising, Serpentine Crack, Cutthroat Wall, Clean Break, ...

There's always next year!


  • Boving-Christensen on Dragontail Peak





  • Dragons of Eden - Dragontail Peak



  • Solid Gold - Prusik Peak





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