Stop Trying So Hard (AKA the TC Production Function)

Blogging generally, including this blog, has seemed to fall out of use. I do think that blogs are generally underrated and deserve somewhat of a comeback, as a good means of posting frequent updates or links which will remain searchable, browsable, and commentable, without the self-obsessed nature and privacy concerns of facebook or instagram.

You are probably falling off "easy" terrain at a sub-optimally low rate. You're probably trying too hard when you climb, and it is making you unnecessarily tired. I know I am.

Alex Honnold stumbles onto a peculiar and little-discussed element of the Tommy Caldwell long route performance algorithm: don't try any harder than minimum necessary. Be barely not falling, even on easy terrain.

"I've seen him just randomly fall off many times."
"In some ways that's the more efficient way to climb."

The exception would be on extremely runout and non-steep terrain, when a fall on easy ground would be disastrous.