5.16.2012

May Climbing Magazine

Check out the May 2012 Climbing Magazine for a piece I wrote as a primer on packing for a big alpine trip!


And the video about their climb:


4 comments:

  1. what a sick piece. the video and the article both super ill. thanks for posting it up.

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  2. Nice work. Quick question though, the article says they used only a Tibloc and Gri-gri for ascending and no mention of ascenders. At 4:18 on the video you see the second coming up using 2 ascenders. Any info on that?

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  3. I think Cheyne edited in some snippets of some other climbs this season - I recognized some features in that video that were on Aguja Guillaumet, not Fitz Roy. A bit of creative license on his part I suppose, given the low priority that filming would have had during such a big, speedy climb. I know that the jugging setup used on Fitz was definitely a GriGri II and a tibloc, so the only added piece of kit and weight was the ~1oz tibloc.

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  4. Very cool, I've never been to the range, so I didn't see that difference. Thanks for getting back on this info. Great blog, writing, and such. Keep it up!

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